grooming a sheltie

[Shelteez]

Casey's coat are starting to come in really thick and the only thing i have done with him so far was to only shave his tummy area and trimming on the paws, now his coat is getting fuller and i need tips how to limit the thickness of the fur by his hind legs ( where it's going to eventually give him the "skirt" look when he gets in that fuller coat later). I posted the picture of what im talking about so you have a better understanding what im trying to say LOL... I am going to be grooming casey on my own rather take him to the groomer for my own prefrence. I am sure collies have the similar coat texture as a sheltie so if you groom your collies and or shelties can you give me tips on how to trim in the hind leg area, the part that is really "bushy"? here's the photo, sorry if im not clear

[SalemWitchChild]

Personally I like the fuller look. Sorry I'm no help.

[Sheltiemom86]

It really depends on the type of head you have on your trimmer. Some give you a shorter cut and some give you a longer cut. I would figure out how to calm him down before you trim. I would trim from the inside of his hindleg to the outer. My sheltie's fur is starting to come in too but its not thick yet. I also agree with trimming your dog's hair at home rather than going to a groomer, because i think it can get rather expensive for a sheltie or collie.

[Sheltiemama]

I have been grooming my own shelties for years. Here are some tips for you.

Tools of the trade should be

1. An Undercoat rake

2. A medium pinned steel brush

3. A slicker brush

4. A steel comb

5. A medium sized thinning shears

6. A pair of baby manicure scissors (for between the pads)These are the ones without the pointed sharp ends.

The undercoat rake is the most important tool you can have. It will remove the soft fluffy undercoat without disturbing the outer flowing coat. They look as though they are wicked and will hurt the dog's skin but surprizingly they are more gentle than the steel pinned brushes.

The skirts are easily kept mat free. Put the dog on a table with his rump to you take your hand and run it up the skirt on one leg including the tail. Take the undercoat rake and separate a small amount of hair from your hand and brush down. Continue to do this till you are only holding the tail. Repeat on the other side, Then do the tail. Smooth all the hair down with the slicker brush.
Use the undercoat rake on the dog's beard, back and legs and rump. Then follow up with the steel pinned brush and then the slicker to smooth. The steel comb is a good tool for removing mats from around the ears and keeping his leg feathers free of mats.

You shouldn't have to trim any part of the dog unless he soils himself when he moves his bowels. If that happens you will need to shave the area just around his anus, what we call the poop shute. You can use a scissors or a medium blade trimmer to accomplish the trim.

[adoring_paws]

Originally Posted by SalemWitchChild

Personally I like the fuller look. Sorry I'm no help.

i have an aussie and i like the fuller look myself..

[weezyNollie]

What about the sheltie who doesn't grow an undercoat?! I've heard it takes up to two years to get the entire coat in.. but Casey is younger than Ollie!

[Sheltiemama]

Some shelties don't have a great deal of undercoat, it's a matter of genetics and environment. My Kelsey (RIP) was so full in his undercoat it'd take me two hours just to bath and blow dry. Magic is just the opposite, her undercoat is not nearly as thick, I believe it's mostly because she has never been in cold climates during the winter so she never had the need for the thick downy fur. With these dogs the undercoat rake still works better than the brush or comb. It will remove the hair that is loose and not break off the outer coat. It seems like over kill, but it will help keep those nasty mats from forming.