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| Whoa..... The discussion of Whoa.... on our dog forum. Discuss dog training tips, suggestions, questions, etc.. |
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#1
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Now I'm getting worried. I was at this website where they tell evryone who asks to put their dogs to sleep, and then get mad at everyone who did put their dog to sleep for having done that without having done research. The site makes me really scared, though, because my puppy, Molly, basically appears to be a fear biter (which the person kept saying was an unfixable problem and the dog has to be put to sleep). They say that it happens through the breeding. They say that owners should see it coming, if they adopt a timid puppy. I had no idea. She always shied away from strangers for a few seconds before approaching them, but I didn't think I had anything to worry about. I'm just really worried that the specialist we're planning on hiring will tell us we ahve to put our pup down.
I really want to help my pup through any fear she might have. They said on the sight to try having small children feed her through her crate door, and I thought that sounded like an idea I'd be willing to try (although the kids in the neighboorhood prolly wouldn't). I need other little tips like this. I'm planning on spending a lot of the next week teaching her "come" and "down-stay" while outside. I'm goign to cook up some special treats that she might actually go for, and having her on her long lead, so if she doesn't listen I can pull her to me when I say "come". That is really the command we need to work on the most. Any little tips to make her more comfortable with children and other people would be greatly appreciated! I don't want to have to put my puppy down! BTW, the website address is http://www.leerburg.com/table.htm [ July 17, 2004, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: Elite ] |
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#2
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You can work through this most likely, you just have to look at it as life or death for your dog. You need to do intense training, until 100% reliable, then you need to introduce your dog to triggers from a far distance talking happy giving commands, and special treats, I am using chicken weiners.
You also have to except this dog may never be 100% confident in these situations so it will take viligance in reading her body language for the rest of her life. Also how old is your pup? If you dont see any improvement in about 3 mths you can try prozac, elavil on your vets reccomendatios. As for the site you linked too, forget it, i use a prong collar on Whiskey as he has a large neck and high pain threshold, can drag a full grown man across a parking lot in 5 seconds and he is only 6.5 mths. I dont condone abuse and hnging a dog as this site suggests until it passes out especially on a training collar is abuse of the dog, tool and does nothing but diminish trust. Now as far as the fearful hereditary, it is possible, I have had Whiskey evaluated and they told me the same, seek a trainer, try meds and if there is no improvement put him to sleep. If I were you I would contact a rescue explain your situation including your fear of puting your pup to sleep, I did this and they have been more than helpful in training, information, and in three days and having not yet seen them only following the advice they gave me and reading the information they sent i have already noticed a dramatic change in Whiskey. |
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#3
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Try this site http://www.doggiedoor.com/forums/ and go to the forum about defensive dogs. The advisors there are wonderful and would never tell someone to put their dog to sleep especially when they aren't there in person to evaluate the dog. They will probably tell you to get a full thyroid examine done by a vet since thyroid promblems or other health problems can lead to aggression. Then they will give you great tips on how to build up a dogs confidence so that it won't be fearful and so then would have no reason to fearbite. YOU are always in control, not your trainer. If you don't like the advise they give you . . . FIND SOMEONE NEW. There will always be someone out there that want to find a way to improve behavior without drastic matters. In my opinion that's what the field of animal behavior is all about. As for people telling you to put her to sleep . . . let me be one to tell you DON'T PUT HER TO SLEEP until you have tried absolutely, positively ever single other option and her behavior is still dangerous (I don't actually think it is possible for that to happen, but it might
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#4
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Thanks heartsong I did forget to mention the thyroid testing, Whiskey is going in for his as the reading I have done covers many behavior issues that are relaed to thyroid issue.
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#5
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You can try this: Fear biting can be controlled by giving the dog confidence to handle new situations and desensitizing to existing situations. Molly is a pit mix correct? That means she does have aggression triggers built in.
Sit down and make a full list of all situations where you have noticed her increased aggression. Are there common triggers? Look at your lifestyle - are these situations controlable or avoidable? Now work out a plan to have her experience these situations in a diluted way. For example - walking accross the street from passerbys. Make a plan on how you want her to react - ie sit, down, and then start using it. When ever you are going into a new situations watch carefully for signs of stress. You know Molly best so does her hair rise, does she stand on toes, etc. Always try to get the commands in before the stress level rises out of your control. This will be a process of baby steps. The more confident she is and the more she trusts you to protect her - the less stress she will have in life. |
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#6
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Molly is a 7.5 month old put/rott/lab mix (nice, eh? lol)
I'm glad you guys have faith in her We're at no point of giving up, thank goodness. And I am EXTREMELY thankful that she's not aggressive towards other animals (she loves dogs and kitties). I just took her outside for a long time to do come, wait, and settle excersizes (clicker training names for all the tricks are soo weird...I wish they could just be normal come, stay, and sit). She did quite well, because I gave her beef hotdog and cheese instead of her normal treats, and let her play with another dog for a while before to calm her down. Poor owner of that dog, tho...he was calling the dog the entire time we were playing with her, so I gave him a treat to give her and she finally came. People who can't control their dogs shouldn't let them offleash...this certain dog is normally unfriendly towards other animals and people (but she likes us, prolly cause I give her treats). But anyways, I've realized I can normally know when she's about to do something instinctively, as my other dog, Daisy, has fear aggression as well (but this was caused by abuse for 2 years of her life). My mum and I were walking last night, and this couple started approaching us, and I practically yelled at my mum to bring her in, and she didn't, and Molly lunged and barked at the people...I think maybe *I* should do the walking until she figures it out. I don't notice particular things she does before...my brain just tells me. Boy...2 dogs with fear agression certainly does not make my life any easier, lol! I can keep Daisy away from other people, but Molly is a puppy and we still have to socialize her and we want her to be able to be around humans, and play with other dogs...things normal people do that I have known I could never do with Daisy. We'll definently work on it. Thank you guys
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#7
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Her age is a factor too at this point. They go thru stages where they seem to develop fears for no reason. The key is not to let her challenge or run away for these things. Ariel loves the vet but when I took her in last week for the minor infection, she acted like the scales where going to jump up and swallow her whole. She actually pulled her collar off. The only thing I had with me were tic tacs (no body yell at me for this - I don't make it a habit) so I placed one on the scale, she came over at the tic tac and then all was good again. She stood on the scale so we could weight her.
I think if she was allowed not to be weighted that time, each time after would be harder & harder. |
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